— notebook · travel · venice · october 2026

venice.
stone on water.

Venice is the best materials lesson there is: an entire city raised on water, where every stone is where it is for a reason. We have walked it through several editions of the Biennale, always with one compulsory stop: Carlo Scarpa’s Negozio Olivetti on Piazza San Marco.

text and photos: Ray Ródenas, architect · october 2026

stone staircase of Carlo Scarpa’s Negozio Olivetti in Venice

a city on water.

In Venice, water decides the materials. Below, where the tide rises and falls, white Istrian stone protects the walls; above, brick and render that the salt paints over the years. It is the oldest rule in building, applied to a whole city: every material where it works best.

a canal and its reflections
a canal and its reflections
a narrow rio
a narrow rio
the grand canal
the grand canal
the fondamenta, by the water
the fondamenta, by the water
palazzo with a stone stair
palazzo with a stone stair

The bridges are the other lesson: stone arches worn by centuries of footsteps, the step rounded exactly where everyone treads. No imitation material ever gets that patina.

stone bridge over the canal
stone bridge over the canal

look slowly.

Away from San Marco, Venice goes quiet: narrow calli, campi with their tree and their wellhead, stone paving nobody photographs. And the small details, like brass knockers on stone, that say more about the city than many monuments.

a quiet calle
a quiet calle
a campo, far from san marco
a campo, far from san marco
brass knockers on stone
brass knockers on stone

the negozio olivetti.

In 1957 Adriano Olivetti asked Carlo Scarpa for a shop under the Procuratie Vecchie on Piazza San Marco. He did not want just another shop, but a showcase of what his company stood for. Scarpa turned a narrow, dark space into one of the masterpieces of twentieth-century interior design. Today it is run by FAI and open to visitors.

the shop, from piazza san marco
the shop, from piazza san marco
the interior, end to end
the interior, end to end
the entrance
the entrance
display case with olivetti machines
display case with olivetti machines

the staircase.

Scarpa placed the monumental staircase in the middle of the shop, turning a functional element into the pivot of the whole space. The solid, staggered steps overlap and shift, and seem to float; the pivots are left exposed. It is a staircase, a sculpture and one more display. Scarpa summed it up in one line: “for a king, a royal palace is mandatory”.

the central staircase
the central staircase
the staircase, in a historic photograph
the staircase, in a historic photograph
seen from above, historic photo
seen from above, historic photo
staggered, offset steps
staggered, offset steps
the pivots, left exposed
the pivots, left exposed

the floor.

The floor is a mosaic of coloured glass tesserae, laid with deliberate irregularity and a different colour in each area: red at the entrance, greyish white in the main room, blue at the side entrance and yellow at the back. The tesserae do not touch, letting the joint and the stone show between them. Scarpa wanted a sense of movement, as if the floor were covered by a veil of water.

red glass mosaic
red glass mosaic
colour change between areas
colour change between areas
stone set into the mosaic
stone set into the mosaic

the water.

By the entrance, Alberto Viani’s sculpture “Nudo al sole” is reflected in a sheet of water over a black base: Scarpa brings the lagoon inside the shop. Water runs through all his work, and here it is handled with the same care as everything else. Even the drain is drawn. And the central pillar, clad in Aurisina marble, plays polished stone against rough-hewn edges.

the sheet of water and the pillars
the sheet of water and the pillars
even the drain is drawn
even the drain is drawn
polished and rough-hewn stone, with a brass profile
polished and rough-hewn stone, with a brass profile
“Scarpa does not design with materials: he designs the meeting between them.”— what we take away

the biennale.

The Biennale fills the Giardini, with the national pavilions among the trees, and the halls of the Arsenale, the old brick-and-timber shipyards. We have been to several editions and it is always the same: what stays with you is what works with the essentials. Light, fog, stone, steel.

arsenale: light
arsenale: light
arsenale: fog
arsenale: fog
stone and corten steel
stone and corten steel
installation against the brick wall
installation against the brick wall
installation at the arsenale
installation at the arsenale

And in the Giardini, Scarpa again: the Venezuela pavilion is his. A restrained volume among the trees, with the same obsession for junctions and detail as the Olivetti shop.

the giardini
the giardini
venezuela pavilion, by carlo scarpa
venezuela pavilion, by carlo scarpa
venezuela pavilion: the steps
venezuela pavilion: the steps

what we take away.

Venice and Scarpa teach the same thing: detail is not decoration, it is the architecture. Choosing the right stone is only half the job. The other half is how it meets water, brass, timber and light. That is what we look for in every project.

sunset on the lagoon
sunset on the lagoon
my quick listNegozio Olivetti (FAI) · Fondazione Querini Stampalia, also by Scarpa · the Giardini and the Arsenale during the Biennale · an aimless walk through Cannaregio and Dorsoduro · the Grand Canal by vaporetto at sunset. And if you are coming from Verona: our Verona guide →
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